In the ever-evolving world of skincare, what was once considered groundbreaking and effective can quickly become outdated and potentially harmful. The 70s, 80s, and 90s were a time when skincare routines were vastly different from what we know today, and many of the practices that were popular back then are now being urged by dermatologists to be left in the past. From alcohol-heavy toners to sunbed recommendations, these retro skincare routines are not only ineffective but can also cause significant harm to our skin. Let's take a closer look at some of these outdated practices and explore the modern alternatives that are now considered more effective and safer for our skin.
The Alcohol-Heavy Days
In the 70s and 80s, the 'squeaky clean' skin trend was all the rage. Alcohol-heavy toners and astringents were marketed as the solution for oil control and breakouts. However, Kimberley Medd, Clinical Manager of Face the Future, explains that these products often compromised the skin barrier. "Many people mistook tightness for cleanliness when it was actually a sign of inflammation. High concentrations of alcohol strip more than excess oil, but essential lipids that help maintain barrier function, leading to transepidermal water loss, skin irritation, rebound oil production, and even worsening breakouts."
Today, the focus has shifted to balancing the skin rather than stripping it. Ingredients like niacinamide, azelaic acid, green tea extract, and gentle PHAs are now used to regulate oil production and calm inflammation without disrupting the microbiome. "Hydration and barrier repair are now considered foundational, even for acne-prone skin," adds Kimberley.
Sun Exposure and Sun Beds
In the 70s and 80s, sun exposure and sunbeds were often recommended for acne. The belief was that sunbathing 'dried out' pimples. However, as Kimberley points out, "it only damaged the skin further."
Today, we understand that there is no such thing as a safe tan. UV exposure accelerates photoaging, increases pigmentation issues, and significantly raises the risk of skin cancer. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is now non-negotiable and should be worn daily. "Now we know that there is no such thing as a safe tan, as UV exposure accelerates photoaging, increases pigmentation issues and significantly raises the risk of skin cancer," says Kimberley.
Abrasive Face Scrubs
In the 80s and 90s, abrasive physical scrubs were popular, often made with crushed walnut shells or large, irregular particles. These scrubs created microscopic tears in the skin, impairing the skin barrier and triggering sensitivity. Over time, this can exacerbate conditions like rosacea and contribute to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in deeper skin tones.
Today, chemical exfoliations with AHAs and BHAs are preferred. These provide more uniform exfoliation at a cellular level without causing trauma to the skin. "Used correctly and at appropriate strengths, they deliver smoother, brighter skin with far less risk of barrier damage," explains Kimberley.
Skipping Moisturizer
In the 80s, oil control was everything, and matte skin was the goal. This led to the dominance of toners, alcohol-based astringents, and foaming cleansers. Moisturizer was often positioned as something only for dry or mature skin, and skipping it was encouraged for spot-prone individuals.
However, Kimberley emphasizes, "Sebum isn’t the enemy; it’s part of the skin’s natural defense system." She advises, "Simply put, moisturize, no matter what skin type you have! Understanding that hydration and oil are not the same thing. Oily skin can still be dehydrated. When you avoid moisturizer, you weaken the barrier further, which can lead to increased inflammation, impaired healing, and more persistent breakouts."
Pore Strips
Pore strips became a cultural phenomenon in the 90s. They physically remove the top of a comedone and some sebaceous filaments but don't address the underlying oil production or follicular blockage. "Today, salicylic acid remains the gold standard because it’s oil-soluble and can penetrate the pore lining, plus correct use of retinoids can normalize cell turnover and prevent congestion forming in the first place," says Kimberley.
Aggressive Acne Treatments
In the 90s, the 'cleanse, tone, strip' philosophy was popular, often involving aggressive formulas used twice daily. Today, we understand that acne is a complex inflammatory condition driven by excess sebum production, abnormal keratinization within the pore, cutibacterium acnes bacteria, and hormonal influences. "There's still a lot of misperception even today, as in our survey, we found that almost half of women in the UK (40 percent) believe adult acne is not talked about enough in skincare, and 66 percent don't know whether their acne is hormonal, bacterial, fungal, or something else," notes Kimberley.
The modern approach to acne treatment focuses on understanding the root cause and using gentle cleansers and topical retinoids. "Today, it's all about understanding the root cause, with gentle cleansers and topical retinoids," says Kimberley.
In conclusion, the skincare wisdom of the 70s, 80s, and 90s was well-intentioned but often did more harm than good. As Kimberley Medd wisely notes, "Today, we focus on balancing rather than stripping with ingredients like niacinamide, azelaic acid, green tea extract, and gentle PHAs, which can help regulate oil production and calm inflammation without disrupting the microbiome."
It's essential to keep up with the latest advancements in skincare and to consult with dermatologists to ensure that we're using the most effective and safest products for our skin. After all, in the ever-evolving world of skincare, what's considered groundbreaking today might be outdated tomorrow. So, let's embrace the modern alternatives and leave the retro skincare routines in the past!
